End of the Journey

As the trip is ended; there will be no additional posts to Traveling With Teen for the time being.


Wednesday, June 18, 2008

The end of the travels

Well, we are both back in Toronto now. Aaste still claims that, in general, she did not enjoy the 8 months that she was outside of Canada. Everyone tells me that one day she will thank me.... but I'm not sure that matters. What matters is that she saw a wide variety of ways that people live in the world. She observed and enjoyed or didn't enjoy (amoung other things):

  • Shipboard life onboard the Queen Mary 2.
  • The busy cosmopolitan existences of big city life in New York, London and Dublin.
  • The laid-back, non-commercial and cooperative lives of people on Sherkin Island.
  • The clean, organized, and socially respectful cultures of Scandinavia, remarking to me "You know what's different here from at home Mom? There are no homeless people here."
  • The poverty and struggles of people in Nicaragua.
  • The oddness of ex-pat culture in a tropical beach town.
  • A solid introduction to the Spanish language (which she DOES acknowledge pleasure about already)
I believe that for better or for worse, these observations and experiences will shape the person that she is... and personally I believe that it will give her a broader view of the world - which has to be a good thing.

We are still speaking! Although 14 year old girls and their mothers have unique relationship challenges, and we are not an exception.

For me, this journey has convinced me that I am not ready to return to life in Toronto and perhaps I never will be. I have decided to return to Nicaragua for at least 6 months. I have sold my house in Toronto and am scheduled to return to Nicaragua in August of 2008. The adventure continues.

3 days and 10 galleries


Mexico City Street Scene

I arrived in Mexico City in the early afternoon on Wed. I was scheduled to depart for Puerto Vallarta early evening on Friday. This left me 2.5 days of time to cram in as much of Mexico City as possible. I decided to focus on art and art galleries. I was not disappointed. Mexico City is a fascinating place and if it weren't for the bad air quality I could see myself spending more time there. I was impressed by two things: less poverty than I expected - it is an incredibly large city so it is quite possible to never actually bump in to the legendary shanty towns. Second - the sad lack of sidewalk cafes. For a city with a fantastic climate and a European history, Mexico City seems to lack a cafe culture and sidewalk cafes were few and far between.


A lovely street in a wealthy suburb.


The famous murals were as impressive as promised.


The garden of Frida Kahlo's house.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Goodbye Nica (for now)


I will miss the sunsets!

I flew out of Managua on May 5 - destination Mexico City. I had booked in to a Couch Surfing network contact's apartment for two nights and was determined to see as much art as possible while I was in Mexico City. Thus, although it was a little sad to say goodbye to Nicaragua I was eagerly anticipating enjoying Mexico City for a couple of days.



A nighttime view of the town from our 'patio'.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Art in the Park

San Juan had it's second annual 'Art in the Park' festival a couple of weeks ago. I volunteered to help out and was given the job of distributing 200 raffle tickets to kids between 5 and 12 years old. The ticket gave them a chance to win one of 24 bicycles that had been donated by local individuals and businesses.

In order to try and ensure that each child only received one raffle ticket, we marked their hands with a magic marker. Well, magic markers and sweat don't mix so well and the magic properties wear off, as do the marks! While some kids were seen busily trying to speed this process by rubbing frantically at the spot on the backs of their hands, other kids were returning to us quite concerned that their marks had worn off and asked for a new mark.



One of the more entertaining aspects of the day was watching the volunteers try to get the tents set up to shade us all from the beating sun. That is, it was entertaining until one of tents got caught by the wind and flipped 'ass over tea kettle' as they say... fortunately all the kids got out of the way of it, and although a few adults were struck, no one was seriously injured.



Thanks to my friend, Marie, who seeing me standing in the morning sun went and bought me a hat!



Mom's observations of Nicaragua

My mom visited us late last month, and upon her return home sent a short epistle to her friends detailing her observations of San Juan del Sur and Nicaragua in general. Here are some of her observations:

It was 1987 the last time I was in Nicaragua. At that time the U.S.A. was still supporting the Contra, the people that were against the Sandinista government that had taken control and ousted the long lasting and very corrupt Somosa regime. So much energy and money had to be spent protecting the country from the Contra. Those forces (terrorists) would come at night into the villages and destroy hospitals, schools and people.

You may remember that a couple of years earlier John [my father] had been a member of a farmers group that went to help the people. The Canadian farmers were helping the Nicaraguan ones in the maintenance of farm machinery. In 1987 he, his cousin, and Sandy drove to Nicaragua and it was then that I flew down to join them. At that time the infrastructure was, well, most of it was not. There were next to no means of transportation, there were shortages of nearly everything. The people, who under Somosa had been very poor, still were, but there was hope that things would improve once the Contra gave up. I saw so many changes. The city of Managua which had suffered a devastating earth quake prior to ’87 still had blocks of rubble which is now all cleaned up and parks and new buildings are in place there. There is also an area that is a shantytown inhabited by those who are landless and unemployed.

The city is full of new vehicles, trucks, SUV’s, cars, nice taxis and motorbikes.There are also small bicycle taxis and small three wheeled vehicles for hire. Naturally the common folk do not have cars but they now have options. I was not on any buses but Sandy tells me that they are often, regular, well used and quite acceptable except for Americano’s Norte folk with long legs

Sandy and Aaste have been living in a small town of 5 – 6 thousand people. San Juan del Sur is on the south west coast and about 3 hours away from Managua. That depends on the roads and some of them; perhaps a lot of them are in very bad condition. I arrived in San Juan on Easter Sat. and the population was perhaps about 20,000 people. Easter and Semana Santa (the week before Easter) are the biggest holiday throughout Latin America and San Juan, being close to Managua was filled and overflowing.

There were trucks for all sort of food cooking. Whether you wanted chicken or ribs or tortilla’s they and other foods were available. There were two discos’ that had been brought in on trucks and set up on the beach. They were huge, probably held 3 thousand or more people. One wonders how it can be cost effective to set up such places for a short while until I stopped and remembered that labour is so inexpensive. Every ‘booth’ had a boom box going at full volume so the sound was overwhelming and could be heard in the apartment at night.

Mon. was a lovely day. Most of the visitors had left the town and the streets were being cleaned and swept and things were back to normal. San Juan is the windiest place I have ever been and being raised in southern Sask. that is saying something so the cleaning was a good way to try and keep the dust from landing on every surface in the house.

Sandy and Aaste had a very nice new and clean two-bedroom apartment one block off the beach, just around one corner to a fun bar and around the other corner a very good coffee shop and bookstore. They were in class from 8 – 10 and then we would meet at the coffee shop after which they again studied until noon. One afternoon we drove to another beach. On the way a woman was hitch hiking and in Nicaragua if you have space you never pass a person by. I remember in ’87 when our car would have as many people as it could hold, and I don’t mean as in how many seat belts. The beach was lovely as most beaches are but it was the drive down through the hills and farming country that I enjoyed the most.

There is quite a large ex-pat community in San Juan and Tues. all are welcome to a potluck, poker and or Black Jack evening. That was fun and informative finding out how and why folk have left the north and moved there. Various reasons. Some retired and of course their money goes so much further there. Some have started a business but all are past the child rearing age, at least the ones I met.

The drive back to Managua was interesting as Sandy chose a route that took us through a series of villages. One was all furniture building, another garden centre’s another ceramics and so on. Nothing like that when I was there before. Lovely to see the creativity of the citizen’s emerging.

Would I recommend a visit to Nicaragua? If you are of an adventurous bent, are aware of the poverty of the people and how rich we look even without gold and silver on our bodies, don’t mind driving your rental car over very rough roads, love gorgeous beaches and spectacular scenery then go for it.

Living on top of the world (well on top of San Juan anyway)


The road in (and out) of San Juan.

There is but one road in (and out) of San Juan del Sur. For the past month I have lived in a tiny little house perched above that road. The San Juan bay is ringed by small mountains and the village lays nestled between the mountains and the ocean. The single road follows the valley between two mountains where a small river meanders to empty itself at the north end of the beach.

There I am - perched on the 'patio'!



The silver 'shed' to the left is not part of our house - it actually has a separate 'apartment' in it. Sometimes we get neighbors.

Our little house sits on the roof of a small hotel. How it came to be built there I have no idea. It is a strange little thing, no larger than about 16 ft by 8 ft it has a kitchen, bath, small ‘sala’ and sleeping loft. The tin roof shudders sometimes as the wind howls around the house at night. Occasionally a bird will attempt to land on the roof, making an unholy noise of talons sliding and scraping on the tin as it tries vainly to find grip in the unyielding metal. From time to time a small pebble is dropped on the roof, startling me and begging the question: where the hell did that come from?

From the ‘yard’, which is the flat roof of the small hotel, I have a vantage point unlike any other in town. In the mornings I often take my coffee and perched on the side of the roof yard, legs dangling over the edge, (causing the gentle man who cares for the place endless worry as he imagines a gust of wind pushing me over the side) I observe the comings and goings of the town. Nothing can get past my observations - as everyone - beast, human, and vehicle alike, must pass under my eye.

A wooden cart pulled by two oxen rolls slowly down the road, while a speeding motorcycle, honking it’s approach weaves its way around the beasts. Following this comes a shiny white SUV with at least 3 surfboards strapped to the top, a few nondescript cars and then 3 goats. A semi truck carrying a load of bottles of purified water is honking and trying to get around the goats. Where, I wonder, is the goat herd? Now, there is my friend Kelvin (a transplanted Brit/Canadian/Calgarian ex-cop, he produces the local bi-monthly bi-lingual newsletter) walking into town. Will he keep going straight to his ‘office’ at Dave’s bar? No, he has turned up towards the market. Now comes a motorcycle with 3, no make it 4 people on it - the entire family - one child between dad and mom and the baby up front on the gas tank. Quads carry grandma and grandpa too!

I will miss this entertainment, but the wind up here is slowly driving me mad I think, so will be happy when I leave this hillside perch next week.

The view from the west 'patio' allows a glimpse of the ocean and the beautiful sunsets.


General view overlooking town and the mountains to the south.

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Navigating Managua

We went up to Managua on Friday to go to the dentist (I thought I’d take advantage of the $30 cost of a cleaning - versus the $100+ I’ll pay back home). I scheduled this trip for a Friday as I wanted to go to La Casa de Mejia Godoy to hear Carlos Mejia Godoy play his usual Friday night concert. The concert was great and we had a wonderful time - even spent less time than usual wandering lost about the city looking for a place we ‘know’ exists.

I think I may have mentioned before how difficult it can be to find places in Managua. This trip we were challenged to find the hotel that had been recommended, and at which we had reservations. We were told it was 2 blocks past the Spanish Embassy on the left.... it took us about 30 minutes to find it. That’s ‘good’ by our track record.

The reason that finding places in Managua is frustrating is due to it’s unique system of addresses. Here is the description given in the Lonely Planet guide....

...only Managua’s major roads are named. Large buildings, rotondas (traffic circles) and traffic lights serve as de facto points of reference, and locations are described in terms of their direction and distance, usually in cuadras (blocks) from these points. Many of these reference points no longer exist, nd thus addresses may begin with something like ‘de donde fue Sandy’s’ (from where Sandy’s used to be....)

From the reference point, a special system is used for the cardinal points, whereby ‘al lago’ (to the lake) means north, while ‘a la montaña’ (to the mountains) means south. Arriba (up) is east toward the sunrise, while abajo (down) is west and sunset. thus one might hear: ‘del antiguo Cine Dorado, una cuadra al lago y dos cuadras arriba’ (from the one Cine Dorado, one block toward the lake and two blocks up.

!!!!

This is all fine and good if you can find the initial point that the address starts with. In our case, we ‘thought’ we were at the Spanish embassy (they WERE flying the Spanish flag, after all). Turns out we were about 10 blocks away from were we needed to be... so no wonder the directions were frustrating the hell out of us. Ah well.... just part of the adventure.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Shock Doctrine - A book review (of sorts)

An old friend here in Nicaragua is wondering how to approach Canadians for support for the alternative Sandinista party, the MRS (Movimiento Reconstruccion Sandinista). I advised that the first question that they would need to answer would be “Why should Canadians be interested...what about Nicaragua would galvanize or inspire people into taking any kind of action?”

Back in the 80s a variety of progressive sectors of Canadian (and other nations) society were attracted to the Sandinista revolution here because what the FSLN was trying to do at that time represented an alternative to the global status quo that we were already fearing then. Little Nicaragua, by overthrowing a U.S. supported brutal regime and throwing their collective energy into policies and programs that supported the people rather than the corporate elite was a tiny shining beacon in the darkness for many.

The early Sandinistas had good role models to follow. In the two decades before the triumph of the Sandinista revolution in 1979, a wave of leftist movements had swept through much of Latin America and dominated popular culture in much of South America. As Naomi Klein puts it “... it was the poetry of Pablo Neruda, the folk music of Victor Jara and Mercedes Sosa, the liberation theology of the Third World Priests, the emancipatory theater of Augusto Boal, the radical pedagogy of Paulo Freire, the revolutionary journalism of Eduardo Galeano and [Rodolfo] Walsh. It was legendary heroes and martyrs of past and recent history from José Gervasio Artigas to Simón Bolívar to Che Guevara.” (Klein, N. 2007. The shock doctrine: the rise of disaster capitalism” p.104) While ‘revolutions’ in Chile and Argentina had already been defeated in blood baths largely designed by the forces of global capitalism (ie the United States) by 1979, this did not deter the Sandinistas. It was this heroic attempt to provide Nicaraguans with a life of dignity and democracy (not to mention free education, free healthcare, their own land, and employment) that attracted so many people to form solidarity organizations and provide support to Nicaragua. And of course, when the US backed a civil war against this attempt we were even more galvanized to act to support the Nicaraguan people.

In the last couple of decades there has not seemed to be too many ‘shining beacons’ and much of the world was been thrown into ‘survival mode’ it seems. Klein’s book, ‘The shock doctrine: the rise of disaster capitalism’, which I have just finished reading, explains the reasons that so many of us have been pushed into ‘survival mode’. If it has felt like ‘survival mode’ for us in the ‘first world’ it has been 3000% times worst for the majority of people in the world.

Klein defines ‘the shock doctrine’ as the “use of public disorientation following massive collective shocks - wars, terrorist attacks, natural disasters - to push through highly unpopular economic shock therapy. Sometimes, when the first two shocks don’t succeed in wiping out all resistance, a third is employed: that of the electrode in the prison cell or of the Taser gun” (from the flyleaf). Klein’s research is so incredibly thorough (including over 50 pages of notes and references) it is almost daunting for we ‘normal’ writers and thinkers. Her book “explodes the myth that the global free market triumphed democratically. ... she traces the intellectual origins of disaster capitalism back to the University of Chicago’s economics department under Milton Friedman, whose influence is still felt around the world. ‘The Shock Doctrine’ draws new and surprising connections among economic policy, ‘shock and awe’ warfare and the covert CIA-funded experiments in electroshock and sensory deprivation that shaped the torture manuals used today in Guatánamo Bay.” (from the flyleaf) The same techniques that were first ‘reseached’ in McGill University labs in Montreal and then ‘perfected’ in places like Pinochet’s Chile; Samosa’s Nicaragua; and in the dirty wars of El Salvador, Guatemala and so many other places where people dared to ask for some control over their own lands and lives.

“As Klein shows how the deliberate use of the shock doctrine produced world-changing events, from Pinochet’s coup in Chile in 1973 to the Tiananmen Square Massacre in 1989 and the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, she tells a story radically different from the one we usually hear.” (from the flyleaf) Other examples include Iraq; New Orleans in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina and of course the radical changes in the US after the September 11 attacks.

As you might imagine, reading Klein’s book was, in itself, sometimes an exercise in ‘shock’ and I often felt ill, frustrated, and really really angry while reading it. I needed to take frequent ‘mental health breaks’ from my reading and it took me over 2 weeks to get through the 450+ pages. Her writing is easy to read.... it is the content that is so so difficult to face - yet ultimately rewarding, exhilarating, and hopeful.

So - what does Nicaragua offer now that might capture Canadian imaginations? What does this tiny country have to teach us? What are they doing here that might give us that sense of hope again, that change is possible? I’m afraid I don’t as yet have that answer. However, I do think that the MRS is more committed to the Sandinista agenda that once provided us with that ‘beacon’ of hope, than the current government of the FSLN. This may be reason enough for Canadians to pay attention and support one of the poorest nations in this hemisphere, and the MRS as the leadership most likely to deliver.

I also believe that Latin America in general is, again, offering us a model. Klein’s last chapter is one of hope (thank god). Entitled “Shock wears off: the rise of people’s reconstruction’, the chapter details some examples of the backlash against global capitalism. Some of these examples are possibly just as scary as disaster capitalism; for example, the rise of religious fundamentalism is cited as one response.

However, in Latin America left and/or centre left governments are taking control again and “the task of the region’s new left...has become a matter of taking the detritus of globalization and putting it back to work” (p. 455) and Klein cites a number of examples, from the peasant farmer cooperatives in Brazil; the recovered companies movement in Argentina; and the more than 100,000 worker co-ops in Bolivia that manage much of the state infrastructure.

Even more remarkable is that they are now saying NO to such bastions of disaster/free-market capitalism as the IMF, the World Bank and the US government. As of the writing of the book, Brazil had refused “to enter into a new agreement with the IMF. Nicaragua [was] negotiating to quit the fund, Venezuela [had] withdrawn from both the IMF and the World Bank, and even Argentina, Washington’s former “model pupil,” has been part of the trend. In his 2007 State of the Union address, President Néstor Kirchner said that the country’s foreign creditors had told him, ‘You must have an agreement with the International Fund to be able to pay the debt.’ We say to them, ‘Sirs, we are sovereign. We want to pay the debt, but no way in hell are we going to make an agreement again with the IMF.” As a result, the IMF, supremely powerful in the eighties and nineties, is no longer a force on the continent. In 2005, Latin America made up 80 percent of the IMF’s total lending portfolio; in 2007, the continent represented just 1 percent - a sea of change in only two years. “There is life after the IMF,” Kirchner declared, “and it’s a good life”.” (p. 457) The World Bank is being likewise rejected. “In April 2007, Ecuador’s president, Rafael Correa, revealed that he had suspended all loans from the banks and declared the institution’s representative in Ecuador persona non grata - an extraordinary step. Two years earlier, Correa explained, the World Bank had used a $100 million loan to defeat economic legislation that would have redistributed oil revenues to the country’s poor. ‘Ecuador is a sovereign country and we will not stand for extortion from this international bureaucracy,’ he said.” (p.457)

As Klein points out “it stands to reason that the revolt against neoliberalism would be in it’s most advanced stage in Latin America - as inhabitants of the first shock lab, Latin Americans have had the most time to recover their bearings.” (p. 458) It is for this reason, I think, that North Americans in particular will begin looking again to Latin America for guidance in how to organize our social movements to fight against the forces that attempt to convince us that social and economic justice is an impossible goal. Again, like in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s ‘idealist’ North Americans may begin to take their inspiration from this popular culture of Pablo Neruda, Victor Jara, Mercedes Sosa, liberation theology, Ernesto Cardinal, Augusto Sandino, Emiliano Zapato, Augusto Boal, Paulo Freire, Eduardo Galeano, Silvio Rodriquez, Rodolfo Walsh, Simón Bolívar, Che Guevara... and so so many of the dead to whom we owe it not to lose hope in a version/vision of the world that we can be proud of.

¡El pueblo unido jamás será vencido!
¡No Pasaran!

Sunday, April 20, 2008

San Juan Mercado

Aaste claimed that the pancakes in the Mercado were the best in San Juan del Sur.


Thursday, April 10, 2008

Little Pieces of Jungle Heaven

We travelled to San Carlos on the southern shore of Lake Nicaragua last week. There are three ways to get to San Carlo: fly; take a HORRIBLE 15 hour bus trip over some of the worst roads in a country with really bad roads; or take an overnight ferry. Having more time than money, we opted for the ferry trip.

The view of the lake from our cabin on San Fernando.

From San Carlos we visited two of the islands in the Solentiname Archipelago before returning to San Carlos and travelling down the Rio San Juan to El Castillo. On the island of San Fernando our cabin had a lovely lake view and then on the river we stayed in a quintessential jungle river lodge, complete with romantic mosquito netted beds; luxuriant quasi outdoor showers and our own hammock strung deck overlooking the river. The cabins were all on stilts and bore the names: Congo Mono; Tarzan; Jane; Cheetah; etc.

The river view from our cabin at the river lodge - The Congo Mono (Mono being Spanish for Monkey - and yes - we could certainly hear the monos from our cabin.

When I awoke the next morning, I sighed and wished I could have stayed for at least another lovely day. In all the places we stayed that week, we were the only guests. At the Sabolos River Lodge we were outnumbered by staff by about 3 to 1, and the service was absolutely first rate! I felt very much like I had walked in to a movie!

Our cabin!


A home along the river.

Nica Art

When last in Managua I spent a great deal of time looking for and going to art galleries. Like everything else in Managua - they are not easy to find. However, I did eventually manage to visit 5 galleries. In all but one of them they allowed me to take pictures. They aren't the best pictures in the world.... but hopefully they will give you an idea of the range of art available here.

Watercolours are rare; and sculptures seem to be few and far between at least in the galleries, with the wonderful exception of Ernesto Cardinal's work. Nicaragua is most well known for it's primitivist or naïve paintings. I recently visited Solentiname (home of the primitivist painters). Unfortunately my photos of these works really didn't come out well. I'll put one or two up anyway to give you an idea.


A 'primitivist' painting by a Solentiname artist - Silvia Arellano I believe, although my notes are a bit sketchy.


One of Ernesto Cardinal's fantastic Garza sculptures.


Painting by A. Varga at the Tierra Siena Gallery in Managua.


Raul Marin - at the Josefina Galleria in Managua


A variety of paintings at the Cordice Gallery


Painting of coffee plants by Caceres at the Cordice Gallery


Balsa wood carvings by the Solentiname artists.

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Graduation

Eight weeks of Spanish study are over! It is time to get out there and practise! My friend, John, and I are hoping to take off for San Carlos and Solentiname next week.... although he has some emergency dental work he needs to take care of first.



Aaste goes home

Perhaps I should change the name of this blog, now that I am on my own and no longer 'travelling with teen'.... but somehow even without her around physically - as a mother, I am always 'travelling with teen'.

My mom came down for a short visit last week and Aaste returned to Mexico with her. She will have a fun vacation in Puerto Vallarta with her cousins for a week, and then will fly back to Toronto to spend the next couple of months with her Dad.

Yes, we are still talking to one another. I hope Aaste will look back on these months that we have spent in other countries as the fantastic experience that everyone else thinks it has been for her. Right now, she is dying to get back to Canada and her familiar environment. She liked living in San Juan better than many of the places we visited, and she learned an amazing amount of Spanish... but she is very very excited to be going home soon.

I will miss her..... in a few weeks....right now I am reveling in my alone time! It's been a while!

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Popoyo - Surf Nicaragua

I met a young artist here a few weeks back. Armando comes from one of the most well known artistic families in all of Nicaragua (he is the nephew of Carlos and Luis Enrique Mejia Godoy for those of you for whom that means anything) and a really nice guy. Last week I ran in to Armando again and he told me of his new job. As most artists the world over, Armando's day job has often been in the restaurant and bar biz; and he had just accepted a position to manage a new bar/restaurant/hotel at Popoyo beach. Popoyo is known as one of the best surf spots in the world.... but unless you are a surfer in the know, it is unlikely you will hear of this pristine spot.

Magnific Rock, Popoyo

Last Thursday we took a trip out to Popoyo to visit Armando and see the spot. It took us 3 hours, and at least half of that time was on some of the dustiest, roughest road I have ever experienced. However, we did pass through a lovely lush green valley on the way, had a nice lunch and tour of the hotel, admired the great work Armando and his wife had done on decorating the place, and went swimming on a massive beach where we were practically the only ones there.

Magnific Rock Surf Center Hotel and Restaurant, Popoyo

Although surfers had been out earlier in the morning, the swells had fallen a bit in the afternoon and there weren't any surfers to watch. It's not as good a beach for observing surfing as, say, Maderas (the big San Juan surf beach) as the breaks are far further from the shore. However, it is definitely another beautiful spot in a country with so many beautiful spots. Apparently the biggest waves hit here come June or July.... that would be something to see!


Surfers at Maderas Beach


Some minor waves at Maderas


Popoyo Beach

Friday, March 21, 2008

Semana Santa


Easter is THE holiday in most of Latin America. In Nicaragua it is the party holiday of the year, and San Juan del Sur is the destination of choice. Rumour has it that up to 250,000 people descend on the town (usual population is about 6000). We began seeing preparations for the party last weekend, and every day since then has seen more and more changes to our quiet town.

The local gringos (more politely referred to as extranjeros) seem to fear the week and we were warned over and over of the mayhem to be expected. Not to mention the warnings not to venture outside with any valuables including our better jewellery, for fear of it being ripped right off our necks and ears.


By Tuesday, most of our usual haunts that cater to the ex-pat community had closed up shop, allowing their staff to have a vacation and their owners to vacate town for a bit. Many of the local extranjeros do not look forward to the party and head either home for a brief vacation, or hide away in their homes for the week. Some actually head in to Managua, while the Managuans head here. Apparently the Managua hotels offer amazing deals during Semana Santa.

Soon, barricades had been erected to close off the beachfront street to all but delivery traffic and our street became the main road for anyone heading north along the beach. We watched as truck after truck rolled into town bringing temporary constructions of all types and hundreds of porta-potties. By Wednesday night things were getting in to full swing, as pizza trucks, fried chicken trucks, ice cream and beer stands all were ensconced in empty lots and other spare space along the beachfront. Two huge discoteques were erected on the north end of the beach, along with a temporary football (soccer) pitch and a beach volleyball court. The discotecques are particularly impressive as they each must hold close to 2 or 3000 people and are multi-level, multi-staged constructions.

Last night my friend John and I headed out to partake of the party ourselves. John is not much of a nightclub lover, so I credit him as an amazingly 'good sport' for accompanying me into the craziness. Especially since in a crush of people he was marked by not one pick-pocket, but three. Or perhaps the same one three times - it was impossible to tell in the crowd. The third attempt was successful and we lost our cash - all $30 of it! We were wise enough to come out with only the bare minimum. John had slipped the cash into the front pocket of his jeans, and kept his hand on his pocket at all times... however they managed to knock him off balance and get it out. Amazingly persistent! Had we known how brazen they could be, I would have insisted on putting the cash in my bra, as no one had tried to get in there!

We had already purchased our entry tickets, so while I waited John went home for 'drink' money, and was marked yet a fourth time on his way back. This time he elbowed the guy and sent him flying to the ground. Turns out we didn't need 'drink' money, as once you pay your entrance fee, all drinks are free! However, after a few drinks in the first disco, I wanted to visit the second one. I reckoned it is highly unlikely that I will ever attend a Semana Santa disco again, (not being a disco lover myself) so best do it right this time. The second disco insisted that as part of your entry you must buy a package of cigarettes! The sponsor of the disco was Pall Mall of course. All in all we had a nice time watching the crowds and drinking rum. I am glad I experienced it... but doubt I will race out to do it again.

Tonight, the party will rage on till 4 or 5 in the morning, but we are told that things will begin quieting down tomorrow and to quote my friend Marie, "Sunday, we get our town back."

Monday, March 10, 2008

Daily life.... yawn...

Life may not be exciting in San Juan, but I certainly haven't had cause to be bored yet. Mornings are busy with Spanish classes. In the afternoons, if we aren't being carted off to yet another beach on a school organized group trip, there is always studying, reading, getting groceries, stopping to chat on the street, sweeping out the ever-present sand, etc. etc.

Last week, Wednesday afternoon found us going horseback riding again. It had been about 12 years since I had ridden a horse and now I have done it twice in as many months. Well, this time I thought I could push myself a little and on the way back I engaged in a friendly race with a friend. He won of course. I laughed a lot. It was fun. I'd forgotten that I kinda knew how to ride. Well, kinda would be the operative word in that sentence and I have the saddle sores to prove it! Remind me to buy one of those fake 'asses' that I've seen should I ever decide to go on a 10 day trail ride!

On Friday we went out to visit Nick's farm (see previous post on Nica friends for info about Nick). It's not that far out of town and features at least two private beaches. The one where Nick has chosen to build his house has some of the loveliest, softest sand I have ever felt. It's a great spot! It got dark before we got around to packing up, and I managed to leave half of my bathing suit out there somewhere. So, yesterday we went back out to see if we could locate it. I couldn't find it (but there are always more at the store for about $10 bucks). While we were there we decided to check out Nick's other beach which is a favourite of many of the locals.

The fact that the locals like El Toro beach might be made into an interesting cultural comparison. No self-respecting gringo would ever call El Toro their favourite beach... there is not a grain of sand on the whole place, neither on the beach nor in the water. What it does have going for it is that the water is calm and clear, and there is NO ONE there. Consequently, lacking half a bathing suit was not a problem, as we enjoyed a terrific swim without any suits at all and dried off au natural! Ah.... now THAT is swimming!

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Want to know more about Nicaragua?

This blog is a travelogue, mostly so that our friends and family can know what we are up to. If you are interested in Nicaragua today I recommend the following blog, that is published by an old 'companero' of mine: http://aynicaraguanicaraguita.blogspot.com/

Street Scenes

San Juan Del Sur - population estimate: 8000 people


The beachfront street on a typical afternoon.


Main shopping street San Juan. I buy a lot of my groceries in that yellow building.


The 'Gringo' bar, Dave's is right around the corner from home, is owned by a great guy from Edmonton, has free wireless internet (I'm there right now) and features a sign over the bar that reads: "Beer: Not just for breakfast anymore". How can you tell this guy is from Alberta! Monday night movie nights are starting to catch on!

Rivas, Nicaragua. Population estimate: 30,000

Rivas is about 36 km away and the major centre around here. Many of these 'pedicabs' cycle in to San Juan once a week or so when the Crucero (cruise ship) docks for the day.




Yet another dog basking in the sun / middle of the road. Everytime I turn my back Aaste grabs the camera to take another picture of a dog.

A friend here had this to say about dogs (and real estate agents) in San Juan. They are both everywhere, and they both leave a lot of shit behind!

Friday, February 29, 2008

Update on Old Friends in Nicaragua

I recently sent this 'epistle' to some friends back in Toronto who like to stay in touch with developments in Nicaragua:


Hello everyone,

Some of you may know that I am spending this winter in Nicaragua. I have not visited the country in 18 years and had more or less lost contact with all of my friends here. Well.... I am happy to report that I have been able to meet up with some of them. You all probably know from your own reading etc. what the economic and political situation is here, and of course it is even more complicated 'on the ground' so to speak. However, I am happy to report that it is still a land with beauty in both it's landscape and it's people.

I had lunch with Ramon Meneses last week. Ramon has been working with Save The Children (Norwegian branch in Nicaragua) for the past 11 years or so. He is the Communications Director there. The last time I saw Ramon was in 1994. I was about 7 months pregnant with my daughter and volunteered to drive Ramon to various meetings he had with NGOs etc in Toronto. After his business was completed Ramon asked me to take him to Toys R Us so that he could buy birthday party supplies and gifts for his twin girls birthday. I believe they wanted an Aladdin theme. Well, those girls are 21 now. Both of them are studying business administration; one here in Nicaragua and the other one in Calgary Alberta (although she wants to transfer to a university somewhere in Ontario next year). Ramon also has an 8 year old son with his current wife. Last night a friend and I attended the Mercedes Sosa concert in Managua and went out for drinks and a light dinner afterward with Ramon and his wife Dignia after the concert. They seem happy and healthy and we look forward to seeing them again later this month - probably during Semana Santa when they will be down this way. (We are living in San Juan del Sur)

Last Tuesday I was chatting with a friend here who publishes the local newsletter (see http://www.san-juan-del-sur.com for the e-version) and we got to playing the "do you know so-and-so game". Turns out he knows Nick Cooke, as do most people in this region as Nick is a bit of a fixture here. He makes his living editing, translating and writing; is still married to the same lovely woman and has two children who are busily trying to decide which corner of the globe to attend University. One will be 18 this spring and the other is a little younger. Nick also owns a wack of land on the pacific coast here and apparently his beach barbeques are legendary. See http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2008/feb/12/11 for a recent article that features Nick and other 'Sandalistas'.

We stayed in Managua overnight after the concert last night and were able to arrange to meet Rosa Chavez for breakfast this morning. Rosa has been working for American Airlines here in Nicaragua and is now the Director General for American here in Nicaragua. As luck would have it her youngest son, Allan, who is currently living in Toronto and studying dentistry arrived home for a vacation last night and so joined us this morning. The last time I saw Allan he was about 6 years old. He was dead cute then and he still is - very chatty and well spoken much like his parents. You may remember that Rosa was married to Walter Porras. Because Allan had just arrived, Walter was eager to see his youngest son so also joined us for breakfast. I had not been able to make contact with Walter, so it was a surprise for both of us to meet at breakfast this morning. After breakfast Rosa needed to get to the office, but Walter was eager to show both Allan and ourselves his office, so we had a quick tour of the place where Walter is the head of over 1600 employees! He is the Director General de Ingresos for the government of Nicaragua. Walter translates that as being the equivalent of the head of Revenue Canada! Rosa and Walter's other son is studying engineering at the University of Toronto, while their daughter remains here and is the mother of a 3 year old girl and is expecting her second child this summer. I am hoping to meet them all soon.

I have just sent an email off to Danilo Cedeno and hope to be able to see him too while we are here. Danilo runs a very successful furniture and cabinet making business. See the website at: http://lamuebleria.biz/in_index.htm

Aaste and I are happy and healthy and loving life in Nicaragua. Our Spanish is improving as well. You can find out more about our travels at our blog: http://travellingwithteen.blogspot.com (Note that you will likely find a copy of this letter on the blog soon, but I wanted to let you all know this information personally as I thought some of you may be particularly interested.)

Best regards,

Sandy Iverson

Road Trip(s)

Last week we took a break from school and did a bit of wandering in Nicaragua. We went to Managua to do a few errands and to have lunch with an old friend (see post on old friends). We rented a car there and toured around a bit, visiting Masaya, Granada, and a few other towns. My camera was acting up during this time (I think it may have gotten some sand in the lens) so unfortunately I don't have any pictures of us peering into the active volcano in Masaya. However here are a few other pics:


View of Concepcion volcano on Ometepe Island. This is one of the many active volcanoes in the country. It smoked a ton a few weeks ago, but hasn't dumped any ash in the area recently.


The road to a lovely sand spit beach out into Lake Nicaragua from Ometepe Island.

We spent a night at an 'eco lodge' in the hills north of Masatepe. This is the main house. It is owned by a very friendly couple. He is originally from Denmark, she is Nicaraguense.


That's our little rental car. It made it on the back roads, but just barely! We stayed in one of these very comfortable cabins overlooking the Lago Masaya, which is a lake in one of the dormant volcanoes. We went swimming in another one of these lakes - Lago Apoyo. The country is full of these wonderful lakes.

Aaste relaxing on the porch of our cabin. She may have liked the hammock, but she wasn't too crazy about the spiders, and the incredibly loud sounds of crickets and other night creatures that 'sang' us to sleep that night.



On Ometepe Island this jungle 'oasis' swimming pool is called Ojos de Agua (Eyes of Water) and is a wonderful fresh water swimming hole. Note the kids swinging out over the water on the rope! What a wonderful way to spend a lazy Sunday morning.


A wonderful mural in Jinotepe.


We took one of these carraiges for a bit of a tour of the colonial town of Granada. Granada is arguably the oldest Spanish city on the American mainland.


The old cathedral in Granada, still bears the black stains from the fire set by William Walker that burned Granada to the ground in 1856.


Picking mangos in Granada.



A normal Nicaraguan 'finca'.


Typical colonial architecture in Granada.