End of the Journey

As the trip is ended; there will be no additional posts to Traveling With Teen for the time being.


Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Art in the Park

San Juan had it's second annual 'Art in the Park' festival a couple of weeks ago. I volunteered to help out and was given the job of distributing 200 raffle tickets to kids between 5 and 12 years old. The ticket gave them a chance to win one of 24 bicycles that had been donated by local individuals and businesses.

In order to try and ensure that each child only received one raffle ticket, we marked their hands with a magic marker. Well, magic markers and sweat don't mix so well and the magic properties wear off, as do the marks! While some kids were seen busily trying to speed this process by rubbing frantically at the spot on the backs of their hands, other kids were returning to us quite concerned that their marks had worn off and asked for a new mark.



One of the more entertaining aspects of the day was watching the volunteers try to get the tents set up to shade us all from the beating sun. That is, it was entertaining until one of tents got caught by the wind and flipped 'ass over tea kettle' as they say... fortunately all the kids got out of the way of it, and although a few adults were struck, no one was seriously injured.



Thanks to my friend, Marie, who seeing me standing in the morning sun went and bought me a hat!



Mom's observations of Nicaragua

My mom visited us late last month, and upon her return home sent a short epistle to her friends detailing her observations of San Juan del Sur and Nicaragua in general. Here are some of her observations:

It was 1987 the last time I was in Nicaragua. At that time the U.S.A. was still supporting the Contra, the people that were against the Sandinista government that had taken control and ousted the long lasting and very corrupt Somosa regime. So much energy and money had to be spent protecting the country from the Contra. Those forces (terrorists) would come at night into the villages and destroy hospitals, schools and people.

You may remember that a couple of years earlier John [my father] had been a member of a farmers group that went to help the people. The Canadian farmers were helping the Nicaraguan ones in the maintenance of farm machinery. In 1987 he, his cousin, and Sandy drove to Nicaragua and it was then that I flew down to join them. At that time the infrastructure was, well, most of it was not. There were next to no means of transportation, there were shortages of nearly everything. The people, who under Somosa had been very poor, still were, but there was hope that things would improve once the Contra gave up. I saw so many changes. The city of Managua which had suffered a devastating earth quake prior to ’87 still had blocks of rubble which is now all cleaned up and parks and new buildings are in place there. There is also an area that is a shantytown inhabited by those who are landless and unemployed.

The city is full of new vehicles, trucks, SUV’s, cars, nice taxis and motorbikes.There are also small bicycle taxis and small three wheeled vehicles for hire. Naturally the common folk do not have cars but they now have options. I was not on any buses but Sandy tells me that they are often, regular, well used and quite acceptable except for Americano’s Norte folk with long legs

Sandy and Aaste have been living in a small town of 5 – 6 thousand people. San Juan del Sur is on the south west coast and about 3 hours away from Managua. That depends on the roads and some of them; perhaps a lot of them are in very bad condition. I arrived in San Juan on Easter Sat. and the population was perhaps about 20,000 people. Easter and Semana Santa (the week before Easter) are the biggest holiday throughout Latin America and San Juan, being close to Managua was filled and overflowing.

There were trucks for all sort of food cooking. Whether you wanted chicken or ribs or tortilla’s they and other foods were available. There were two discos’ that had been brought in on trucks and set up on the beach. They were huge, probably held 3 thousand or more people. One wonders how it can be cost effective to set up such places for a short while until I stopped and remembered that labour is so inexpensive. Every ‘booth’ had a boom box going at full volume so the sound was overwhelming and could be heard in the apartment at night.

Mon. was a lovely day. Most of the visitors had left the town and the streets were being cleaned and swept and things were back to normal. San Juan is the windiest place I have ever been and being raised in southern Sask. that is saying something so the cleaning was a good way to try and keep the dust from landing on every surface in the house.

Sandy and Aaste had a very nice new and clean two-bedroom apartment one block off the beach, just around one corner to a fun bar and around the other corner a very good coffee shop and bookstore. They were in class from 8 – 10 and then we would meet at the coffee shop after which they again studied until noon. One afternoon we drove to another beach. On the way a woman was hitch hiking and in Nicaragua if you have space you never pass a person by. I remember in ’87 when our car would have as many people as it could hold, and I don’t mean as in how many seat belts. The beach was lovely as most beaches are but it was the drive down through the hills and farming country that I enjoyed the most.

There is quite a large ex-pat community in San Juan and Tues. all are welcome to a potluck, poker and or Black Jack evening. That was fun and informative finding out how and why folk have left the north and moved there. Various reasons. Some retired and of course their money goes so much further there. Some have started a business but all are past the child rearing age, at least the ones I met.

The drive back to Managua was interesting as Sandy chose a route that took us through a series of villages. One was all furniture building, another garden centre’s another ceramics and so on. Nothing like that when I was there before. Lovely to see the creativity of the citizen’s emerging.

Would I recommend a visit to Nicaragua? If you are of an adventurous bent, are aware of the poverty of the people and how rich we look even without gold and silver on our bodies, don’t mind driving your rental car over very rough roads, love gorgeous beaches and spectacular scenery then go for it.

Living on top of the world (well on top of San Juan anyway)


The road in (and out) of San Juan.

There is but one road in (and out) of San Juan del Sur. For the past month I have lived in a tiny little house perched above that road. The San Juan bay is ringed by small mountains and the village lays nestled between the mountains and the ocean. The single road follows the valley between two mountains where a small river meanders to empty itself at the north end of the beach.

There I am - perched on the 'patio'!



The silver 'shed' to the left is not part of our house - it actually has a separate 'apartment' in it. Sometimes we get neighbors.

Our little house sits on the roof of a small hotel. How it came to be built there I have no idea. It is a strange little thing, no larger than about 16 ft by 8 ft it has a kitchen, bath, small ‘sala’ and sleeping loft. The tin roof shudders sometimes as the wind howls around the house at night. Occasionally a bird will attempt to land on the roof, making an unholy noise of talons sliding and scraping on the tin as it tries vainly to find grip in the unyielding metal. From time to time a small pebble is dropped on the roof, startling me and begging the question: where the hell did that come from?

From the ‘yard’, which is the flat roof of the small hotel, I have a vantage point unlike any other in town. In the mornings I often take my coffee and perched on the side of the roof yard, legs dangling over the edge, (causing the gentle man who cares for the place endless worry as he imagines a gust of wind pushing me over the side) I observe the comings and goings of the town. Nothing can get past my observations - as everyone - beast, human, and vehicle alike, must pass under my eye.

A wooden cart pulled by two oxen rolls slowly down the road, while a speeding motorcycle, honking it’s approach weaves its way around the beasts. Following this comes a shiny white SUV with at least 3 surfboards strapped to the top, a few nondescript cars and then 3 goats. A semi truck carrying a load of bottles of purified water is honking and trying to get around the goats. Where, I wonder, is the goat herd? Now, there is my friend Kelvin (a transplanted Brit/Canadian/Calgarian ex-cop, he produces the local bi-monthly bi-lingual newsletter) walking into town. Will he keep going straight to his ‘office’ at Dave’s bar? No, he has turned up towards the market. Now comes a motorcycle with 3, no make it 4 people on it - the entire family - one child between dad and mom and the baby up front on the gas tank. Quads carry grandma and grandpa too!

I will miss this entertainment, but the wind up here is slowly driving me mad I think, so will be happy when I leave this hillside perch next week.

The view from the west 'patio' allows a glimpse of the ocean and the beautiful sunsets.


General view overlooking town and the mountains to the south.

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Navigating Managua

We went up to Managua on Friday to go to the dentist (I thought I’d take advantage of the $30 cost of a cleaning - versus the $100+ I’ll pay back home). I scheduled this trip for a Friday as I wanted to go to La Casa de Mejia Godoy to hear Carlos Mejia Godoy play his usual Friday night concert. The concert was great and we had a wonderful time - even spent less time than usual wandering lost about the city looking for a place we ‘know’ exists.

I think I may have mentioned before how difficult it can be to find places in Managua. This trip we were challenged to find the hotel that had been recommended, and at which we had reservations. We were told it was 2 blocks past the Spanish Embassy on the left.... it took us about 30 minutes to find it. That’s ‘good’ by our track record.

The reason that finding places in Managua is frustrating is due to it’s unique system of addresses. Here is the description given in the Lonely Planet guide....

...only Managua’s major roads are named. Large buildings, rotondas (traffic circles) and traffic lights serve as de facto points of reference, and locations are described in terms of their direction and distance, usually in cuadras (blocks) from these points. Many of these reference points no longer exist, nd thus addresses may begin with something like ‘de donde fue Sandy’s’ (from where Sandy’s used to be....)

From the reference point, a special system is used for the cardinal points, whereby ‘al lago’ (to the lake) means north, while ‘a la montaña’ (to the mountains) means south. Arriba (up) is east toward the sunrise, while abajo (down) is west and sunset. thus one might hear: ‘del antiguo Cine Dorado, una cuadra al lago y dos cuadras arriba’ (from the one Cine Dorado, one block toward the lake and two blocks up.

!!!!

This is all fine and good if you can find the initial point that the address starts with. In our case, we ‘thought’ we were at the Spanish embassy (they WERE flying the Spanish flag, after all). Turns out we were about 10 blocks away from were we needed to be... so no wonder the directions were frustrating the hell out of us. Ah well.... just part of the adventure.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Shock Doctrine - A book review (of sorts)

An old friend here in Nicaragua is wondering how to approach Canadians for support for the alternative Sandinista party, the MRS (Movimiento Reconstruccion Sandinista). I advised that the first question that they would need to answer would be “Why should Canadians be interested...what about Nicaragua would galvanize or inspire people into taking any kind of action?”

Back in the 80s a variety of progressive sectors of Canadian (and other nations) society were attracted to the Sandinista revolution here because what the FSLN was trying to do at that time represented an alternative to the global status quo that we were already fearing then. Little Nicaragua, by overthrowing a U.S. supported brutal regime and throwing their collective energy into policies and programs that supported the people rather than the corporate elite was a tiny shining beacon in the darkness for many.

The early Sandinistas had good role models to follow. In the two decades before the triumph of the Sandinista revolution in 1979, a wave of leftist movements had swept through much of Latin America and dominated popular culture in much of South America. As Naomi Klein puts it “... it was the poetry of Pablo Neruda, the folk music of Victor Jara and Mercedes Sosa, the liberation theology of the Third World Priests, the emancipatory theater of Augusto Boal, the radical pedagogy of Paulo Freire, the revolutionary journalism of Eduardo Galeano and [Rodolfo] Walsh. It was legendary heroes and martyrs of past and recent history from José Gervasio Artigas to Simón Bolívar to Che Guevara.” (Klein, N. 2007. The shock doctrine: the rise of disaster capitalism” p.104) While ‘revolutions’ in Chile and Argentina had already been defeated in blood baths largely designed by the forces of global capitalism (ie the United States) by 1979, this did not deter the Sandinistas. It was this heroic attempt to provide Nicaraguans with a life of dignity and democracy (not to mention free education, free healthcare, their own land, and employment) that attracted so many people to form solidarity organizations and provide support to Nicaragua. And of course, when the US backed a civil war against this attempt we were even more galvanized to act to support the Nicaraguan people.

In the last couple of decades there has not seemed to be too many ‘shining beacons’ and much of the world was been thrown into ‘survival mode’ it seems. Klein’s book, ‘The shock doctrine: the rise of disaster capitalism’, which I have just finished reading, explains the reasons that so many of us have been pushed into ‘survival mode’. If it has felt like ‘survival mode’ for us in the ‘first world’ it has been 3000% times worst for the majority of people in the world.

Klein defines ‘the shock doctrine’ as the “use of public disorientation following massive collective shocks - wars, terrorist attacks, natural disasters - to push through highly unpopular economic shock therapy. Sometimes, when the first two shocks don’t succeed in wiping out all resistance, a third is employed: that of the electrode in the prison cell or of the Taser gun” (from the flyleaf). Klein’s research is so incredibly thorough (including over 50 pages of notes and references) it is almost daunting for we ‘normal’ writers and thinkers. Her book “explodes the myth that the global free market triumphed democratically. ... she traces the intellectual origins of disaster capitalism back to the University of Chicago’s economics department under Milton Friedman, whose influence is still felt around the world. ‘The Shock Doctrine’ draws new and surprising connections among economic policy, ‘shock and awe’ warfare and the covert CIA-funded experiments in electroshock and sensory deprivation that shaped the torture manuals used today in Guatánamo Bay.” (from the flyleaf) The same techniques that were first ‘reseached’ in McGill University labs in Montreal and then ‘perfected’ in places like Pinochet’s Chile; Samosa’s Nicaragua; and in the dirty wars of El Salvador, Guatemala and so many other places where people dared to ask for some control over their own lands and lives.

“As Klein shows how the deliberate use of the shock doctrine produced world-changing events, from Pinochet’s coup in Chile in 1973 to the Tiananmen Square Massacre in 1989 and the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, she tells a story radically different from the one we usually hear.” (from the flyleaf) Other examples include Iraq; New Orleans in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina and of course the radical changes in the US after the September 11 attacks.

As you might imagine, reading Klein’s book was, in itself, sometimes an exercise in ‘shock’ and I often felt ill, frustrated, and really really angry while reading it. I needed to take frequent ‘mental health breaks’ from my reading and it took me over 2 weeks to get through the 450+ pages. Her writing is easy to read.... it is the content that is so so difficult to face - yet ultimately rewarding, exhilarating, and hopeful.

So - what does Nicaragua offer now that might capture Canadian imaginations? What does this tiny country have to teach us? What are they doing here that might give us that sense of hope again, that change is possible? I’m afraid I don’t as yet have that answer. However, I do think that the MRS is more committed to the Sandinista agenda that once provided us with that ‘beacon’ of hope, than the current government of the FSLN. This may be reason enough for Canadians to pay attention and support one of the poorest nations in this hemisphere, and the MRS as the leadership most likely to deliver.

I also believe that Latin America in general is, again, offering us a model. Klein’s last chapter is one of hope (thank god). Entitled “Shock wears off: the rise of people’s reconstruction’, the chapter details some examples of the backlash against global capitalism. Some of these examples are possibly just as scary as disaster capitalism; for example, the rise of religious fundamentalism is cited as one response.

However, in Latin America left and/or centre left governments are taking control again and “the task of the region’s new left...has become a matter of taking the detritus of globalization and putting it back to work” (p. 455) and Klein cites a number of examples, from the peasant farmer cooperatives in Brazil; the recovered companies movement in Argentina; and the more than 100,000 worker co-ops in Bolivia that manage much of the state infrastructure.

Even more remarkable is that they are now saying NO to such bastions of disaster/free-market capitalism as the IMF, the World Bank and the US government. As of the writing of the book, Brazil had refused “to enter into a new agreement with the IMF. Nicaragua [was] negotiating to quit the fund, Venezuela [had] withdrawn from both the IMF and the World Bank, and even Argentina, Washington’s former “model pupil,” has been part of the trend. In his 2007 State of the Union address, President Néstor Kirchner said that the country’s foreign creditors had told him, ‘You must have an agreement with the International Fund to be able to pay the debt.’ We say to them, ‘Sirs, we are sovereign. We want to pay the debt, but no way in hell are we going to make an agreement again with the IMF.” As a result, the IMF, supremely powerful in the eighties and nineties, is no longer a force on the continent. In 2005, Latin America made up 80 percent of the IMF’s total lending portfolio; in 2007, the continent represented just 1 percent - a sea of change in only two years. “There is life after the IMF,” Kirchner declared, “and it’s a good life”.” (p. 457) The World Bank is being likewise rejected. “In April 2007, Ecuador’s president, Rafael Correa, revealed that he had suspended all loans from the banks and declared the institution’s representative in Ecuador persona non grata - an extraordinary step. Two years earlier, Correa explained, the World Bank had used a $100 million loan to defeat economic legislation that would have redistributed oil revenues to the country’s poor. ‘Ecuador is a sovereign country and we will not stand for extortion from this international bureaucracy,’ he said.” (p.457)

As Klein points out “it stands to reason that the revolt against neoliberalism would be in it’s most advanced stage in Latin America - as inhabitants of the first shock lab, Latin Americans have had the most time to recover their bearings.” (p. 458) It is for this reason, I think, that North Americans in particular will begin looking again to Latin America for guidance in how to organize our social movements to fight against the forces that attempt to convince us that social and economic justice is an impossible goal. Again, like in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s ‘idealist’ North Americans may begin to take their inspiration from this popular culture of Pablo Neruda, Victor Jara, Mercedes Sosa, liberation theology, Ernesto Cardinal, Augusto Sandino, Emiliano Zapato, Augusto Boal, Paulo Freire, Eduardo Galeano, Silvio Rodriquez, Rodolfo Walsh, Simón Bolívar, Che Guevara... and so so many of the dead to whom we owe it not to lose hope in a version/vision of the world that we can be proud of.

¡El pueblo unido jamás será vencido!
¡No Pasaran!

Sunday, April 20, 2008

San Juan Mercado

Aaste claimed that the pancakes in the Mercado were the best in San Juan del Sur.


Thursday, April 10, 2008

Little Pieces of Jungle Heaven

We travelled to San Carlos on the southern shore of Lake Nicaragua last week. There are three ways to get to San Carlo: fly; take a HORRIBLE 15 hour bus trip over some of the worst roads in a country with really bad roads; or take an overnight ferry. Having more time than money, we opted for the ferry trip.

The view of the lake from our cabin on San Fernando.

From San Carlos we visited two of the islands in the Solentiname Archipelago before returning to San Carlos and travelling down the Rio San Juan to El Castillo. On the island of San Fernando our cabin had a lovely lake view and then on the river we stayed in a quintessential jungle river lodge, complete with romantic mosquito netted beds; luxuriant quasi outdoor showers and our own hammock strung deck overlooking the river. The cabins were all on stilts and bore the names: Congo Mono; Tarzan; Jane; Cheetah; etc.

The river view from our cabin at the river lodge - The Congo Mono (Mono being Spanish for Monkey - and yes - we could certainly hear the monos from our cabin.

When I awoke the next morning, I sighed and wished I could have stayed for at least another lovely day. In all the places we stayed that week, we were the only guests. At the Sabolos River Lodge we were outnumbered by staff by about 3 to 1, and the service was absolutely first rate! I felt very much like I had walked in to a movie!

Our cabin!


A home along the river.

Nica Art

When last in Managua I spent a great deal of time looking for and going to art galleries. Like everything else in Managua - they are not easy to find. However, I did eventually manage to visit 5 galleries. In all but one of them they allowed me to take pictures. They aren't the best pictures in the world.... but hopefully they will give you an idea of the range of art available here.

Watercolours are rare; and sculptures seem to be few and far between at least in the galleries, with the wonderful exception of Ernesto Cardinal's work. Nicaragua is most well known for it's primitivist or naïve paintings. I recently visited Solentiname (home of the primitivist painters). Unfortunately my photos of these works really didn't come out well. I'll put one or two up anyway to give you an idea.


A 'primitivist' painting by a Solentiname artist - Silvia Arellano I believe, although my notes are a bit sketchy.


One of Ernesto Cardinal's fantastic Garza sculptures.


Painting by A. Varga at the Tierra Siena Gallery in Managua.


Raul Marin - at the Josefina Galleria in Managua


A variety of paintings at the Cordice Gallery


Painting of coffee plants by Caceres at the Cordice Gallery


Balsa wood carvings by the Solentiname artists.