Perhaps I should change the name of this blog, now that I am on my own and no longer 'travelling with teen'.... but somehow even without her around physically - as a mother, I am always 'travelling with teen'.
My mom came down for a short visit last week and Aaste returned to Mexico with her. She will have a fun vacation in Puerto Vallarta with her cousins for a week, and then will fly back to Toronto to spend the next couple of months with her Dad.
Yes, we are still talking to one another. I hope Aaste will look back on these months that we have spent in other countries as the fantastic experience that everyone else thinks it has been for her. Right now, she is dying to get back to Canada and her familiar environment. She liked living in San Juan better than many of the places we visited, and she learned an amazing amount of Spanish... but she is very very excited to be going home soon.
I will miss her..... in a few weeks....right now I am reveling in my alone time! It's been a while!
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Popoyo - Surf Nicaragua
I met a young artist here a few weeks back. Armando comes from one of the most well known artistic families in all of Nicaragua (he is the nephew of Carlos and Luis Enrique Mejia Godoy for those of you for whom that means anything) and a really nice guy. Last week I ran in to Armando again and he told me of his new job. As most artists the world over, Armando's day job has often been in the restaurant and bar biz; and he had just accepted a position to manage a new bar/restaurant/hotel at Popoyo beach. Popoyo is known as one of the best surf spots in the world.... but unless you are a surfer in the know, it is unlikely you will hear of this pristine spot.
Magnific Rock, Popoyo
Last Thursday we took a trip out to Popoyo to visit Armando and see the spot. It took us 3 hours, and at least half of that time was on some of the dustiest, roughest road I have ever experienced. However, we did pass through a lovely lush green valley on the way, had a nice lunch and tour of the hotel, admired the great work Armando and his wife had done on decorating the place, and went swimming on a massive beach where we were practically the only ones there.
Magnific Rock Surf Center Hotel and Restaurant, Popoyo
Although surfers had been out earlier in the morning, the swells had fallen a bit in the afternoon and there weren't any surfers to watch. It's not as good a beach for observing surfing as, say, Maderas (the big San Juan surf beach) as the breaks are far further from the shore. However, it is definitely another beautiful spot in a country with so many beautiful spots. Apparently the biggest waves hit here come June or July.... that would be something to see!
Surfers at Maderas Beach
Some minor waves at Maderas
Popoyo Beach
Magnific Rock, Popoyo
Last Thursday we took a trip out to Popoyo to visit Armando and see the spot. It took us 3 hours, and at least half of that time was on some of the dustiest, roughest road I have ever experienced. However, we did pass through a lovely lush green valley on the way, had a nice lunch and tour of the hotel, admired the great work Armando and his wife had done on decorating the place, and went swimming on a massive beach where we were practically the only ones there.
Magnific Rock Surf Center Hotel and Restaurant, Popoyo
Although surfers had been out earlier in the morning, the swells had fallen a bit in the afternoon and there weren't any surfers to watch. It's not as good a beach for observing surfing as, say, Maderas (the big San Juan surf beach) as the breaks are far further from the shore. However, it is definitely another beautiful spot in a country with so many beautiful spots. Apparently the biggest waves hit here come June or July.... that would be something to see!
Surfers at Maderas Beach
Some minor waves at Maderas
Popoyo Beach
Friday, March 21, 2008
Semana Santa
Easter is THE holiday in most of Latin America. In Nicaragua it is the party holiday of the year, and San Juan del Sur is the destination of choice. Rumour has it that up to 250,000 people descend on the town (usual population is about 6000). We began seeing preparations for the party last weekend, and every day since then has seen more and more changes to our quiet town.
The local gringos (more politely referred to as extranjeros) seem to fear the week and we were warned over and over of the mayhem to be expected. Not to mention the warnings not to venture outside with any valuables including our better jewellery, for fear of it being ripped right off our necks and ears.
By Tuesday, most of our usual haunts that cater to the ex-pat community had closed up shop, allowing their staff to have a vacation and their owners to vacate town for a bit. Many of the local extranjeros do not look forward to the party and head either home for a brief vacation, or hide away in their homes for the week. Some actually head in to Managua, while the Managuans head here. Apparently the Managua hotels offer amazing deals during Semana Santa.
Soon, barricades had been erected to close off the beachfront street to all but delivery traffic and our street became the main road for anyone heading north along the beach. We watched as truck after truck rolled into town bringing temporary constructions of all types and hundreds of porta-potties. By Wednesday night things were getting in to full swing, as pizza trucks, fried chicken trucks, ice cream and beer stands all were ensconced in empty lots and other spare space along the beachfront. Two huge discoteques were erected on the north end of the beach, along with a temporary football (soccer) pitch and a beach volleyball court. The discotecques are particularly impressive as they each must hold close to 2 or 3000 people and are multi-level, multi-staged constructions.
Last night my friend John and I headed out to partake of the party ourselves. John is not much of a nightclub lover, so I credit him as an amazingly 'good sport' for accompanying me into the craziness. Especially since in a crush of people he was marked by not one pick-pocket, but three. Or perhaps the same one three times - it was impossible to tell in the crowd. The third attempt was successful and we lost our cash - all $30 of it! We were wise enough to come out with only the bare minimum. John had slipped the cash into the front pocket of his jeans, and kept his hand on his pocket at all times... however they managed to knock him off balance and get it out. Amazingly persistent! Had we known how brazen they could be, I would have insisted on putting the cash in my bra, as no one had tried to get in there!We had already purchased our entry tickets, so while I waited John went home for 'drink' money, and was marked yet a fourth time on his way back. This time he elbowed the guy and sent him flying to the ground. Turns out we didn't need 'drink' money, as once you pay your entrance fee, all drinks are free! However, after a few drinks in the first disco, I wanted to visit the second one. I reckoned it is highly unlikely that I will ever attend a Semana Santa disco again, (not being a disco lover myself) so best do it right this time. The second disco insisted that as part of your entry you must buy a package of cigarettes! The sponsor of the disco was Pall Mall of course. All in all we had a nice time watching the crowds and drinking rum. I am glad I experienced it... but doubt I will race out to do it again.
Tonight, the party will rage on till 4 or 5 in the morning, but we are told that things will begin quieting down tomorrow and to quote my friend Marie, "Sunday, we get our town back."
Monday, March 10, 2008
Daily life.... yawn...
Life may not be exciting in San Juan, but I certainly haven't had cause to be bored yet. Mornings are busy with Spanish classes. In the afternoons, if we aren't being carted off to yet another beach on a school organized group trip, there is always studying, reading, getting groceries, stopping to chat on the street, sweeping out the ever-present sand, etc. etc.
Last week, Wednesday afternoon found us going horseback riding again. It had been about 12 years since I had ridden a horse and now I have done it twice in as many months. Well, this time I thought I could push myself a little and on the way back I engaged in a friendly race with a friend. He won of course. I laughed a lot. It was fun. I'd forgotten that I kinda knew how to ride. Well, kinda would be the operative word in that sentence and I have the saddle sores to prove it! Remind me to buy one of those fake 'asses' that I've seen should I ever decide to go on a 10 day trail ride!
On Friday we went out to visit Nick's farm (see previous post on Nica friends for info about Nick). It's not that far out of town and features at least two private beaches. The one where Nick has chosen to build his house has some of the loveliest, softest sand I have ever felt. It's a great spot! It got dark before we got around to packing up, and I managed to leave half of my bathing suit out there somewhere. So, yesterday we went back out to see if we could locate it. I couldn't find it (but there are always more at the store for about $10 bucks). While we were there we decided to check out Nick's other beach which is a favourite of many of the locals.
The fact that the locals like El Toro beach might be made into an interesting cultural comparison. No self-respecting gringo would ever call El Toro their favourite beach... there is not a grain of sand on the whole place, neither on the beach nor in the water. What it does have going for it is that the water is calm and clear, and there is NO ONE there. Consequently, lacking half a bathing suit was not a problem, as we enjoyed a terrific swim without any suits at all and dried off au natural! Ah.... now THAT is swimming!
Last week, Wednesday afternoon found us going horseback riding again. It had been about 12 years since I had ridden a horse and now I have done it twice in as many months. Well, this time I thought I could push myself a little and on the way back I engaged in a friendly race with a friend. He won of course. I laughed a lot. It was fun. I'd forgotten that I kinda knew how to ride. Well, kinda would be the operative word in that sentence and I have the saddle sores to prove it! Remind me to buy one of those fake 'asses' that I've seen should I ever decide to go on a 10 day trail ride!
On Friday we went out to visit Nick's farm (see previous post on Nica friends for info about Nick). It's not that far out of town and features at least two private beaches. The one where Nick has chosen to build his house has some of the loveliest, softest sand I have ever felt. It's a great spot! It got dark before we got around to packing up, and I managed to leave half of my bathing suit out there somewhere. So, yesterday we went back out to see if we could locate it. I couldn't find it (but there are always more at the store for about $10 bucks). While we were there we decided to check out Nick's other beach which is a favourite of many of the locals.
The fact that the locals like El Toro beach might be made into an interesting cultural comparison. No self-respecting gringo would ever call El Toro their favourite beach... there is not a grain of sand on the whole place, neither on the beach nor in the water. What it does have going for it is that the water is calm and clear, and there is NO ONE there. Consequently, lacking half a bathing suit was not a problem, as we enjoyed a terrific swim without any suits at all and dried off au natural! Ah.... now THAT is swimming!
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Want to know more about Nicaragua?
This blog is a travelogue, mostly so that our friends and family can know what we are up to. If you are interested in Nicaragua today I recommend the following blog, that is published by an old 'companero' of mine: http://aynicaraguanicaraguita.blogspot.com/
Street Scenes
San Juan Del Sur - population estimate: 8000 people
The beachfront street on a typical afternoon.
Main shopping street San Juan. I buy a lot of my groceries in that yellow building.
The 'Gringo' bar, Dave's is right around the corner from home, is owned by a great guy from Edmonton, has free wireless internet (I'm there right now) and features a sign over the bar that reads: "Beer: Not just for breakfast anymore". How can you tell this guy is from Alberta! Monday night movie nights are starting to catch on!
Rivas, Nicaragua. Population estimate: 30,000
Rivas is about 36 km away and the major centre around here. Many of these 'pedicabs' cycle in to San Juan once a week or so when the Crucero (cruise ship) docks for the day.
Yet another dog basking in the sun / middle of the road. Everytime I turn my back Aaste grabs the camera to take another picture of a dog.
A friend here had this to say about dogs (and real estate agents) in San Juan. They are both everywhere, and they both leave a lot of shit behind!
The beachfront street on a typical afternoon.
Main shopping street San Juan. I buy a lot of my groceries in that yellow building.
The 'Gringo' bar, Dave's is right around the corner from home, is owned by a great guy from Edmonton, has free wireless internet (I'm there right now) and features a sign over the bar that reads: "Beer: Not just for breakfast anymore". How can you tell this guy is from Alberta! Monday night movie nights are starting to catch on!
Rivas, Nicaragua. Population estimate: 30,000
Rivas is about 36 km away and the major centre around here. Many of these 'pedicabs' cycle in to San Juan once a week or so when the Crucero (cruise ship) docks for the day.
Yet another dog basking in the sun / middle of the road. Everytime I turn my back Aaste grabs the camera to take another picture of a dog.
A friend here had this to say about dogs (and real estate agents) in San Juan. They are both everywhere, and they both leave a lot of shit behind!
Friday, February 29, 2008
Update on Old Friends in Nicaragua
I recently sent this 'epistle' to some friends back in Toronto who like to stay in touch with developments in Nicaragua:
Hello everyone,
Some of you may know that I am spending this winter in Nicaragua. I have not visited the country in 18 years and had more or less lost contact with all of my friends here. Well.... I am happy to report that I have been able to meet up with some of them. You all probably know from your own reading etc. what the economic and political situation is here, and of course it is even more complicated 'on the ground' so to speak. However, I am happy to report that it is still a land with beauty in both it's landscape and it's people.
I had lunch with Ramon Meneses last week. Ramon has been working with Save The Children (Norwegian branch in Nicaragua) for the past 11 years or so. He is the Communications Director there. The last time I saw Ramon was in 1994. I was about 7 months pregnant with my daughter and volunteered to drive Ramon to various meetings he had with NGOs etc in Toronto. After his business was completed Ramon asked me to take him to Toys R Us so that he could buy birthday party supplies and gifts for his twin girls birthday. I believe they wanted an Aladdin theme. Well, those girls are 21 now. Both of them are studying business administration; one here in Nicaragua and the other one in Calgary Alberta (although she wants to transfer to a university somewhere in Ontario next year). Ramon also has an 8 year old son with his current wife. Last night a friend and I attended the Mercedes Sosa concert in Managua and went out for drinks and a light dinner afterward with Ramon and his wife Dignia after the concert. They seem happy and healthy and we look forward to seeing them again later this month - probably during Semana Santa when they will be down this way. (We are living in San Juan del Sur)
Last Tuesday I was chatting with a friend here who publishes the local newsletter (see http://www.san-juan-del-sur.com for the e-version) and we got to playing the "do you know so-and-so game". Turns out he knows Nick Cooke, as do most people in this region as Nick is a bit of a fixture here. He makes his living editing, translating and writing; is still married to the same lovely woman and has two children who are busily trying to decide which corner of the globe to attend University. One will be 18 this spring and the other is a little younger. Nick also owns a wack of land on the pacific coast here and apparently his beach barbeques are legendary. See http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2008/feb/12/11 for a recent article that features Nick and other 'Sandalistas'.
We stayed in Managua overnight after the concert last night and were able to arrange to meet Rosa Chavez for breakfast this morning. Rosa has been working for American Airlines here in Nicaragua and is now the Director General for American here in Nicaragua. As luck would have it her youngest son, Allan, who is currently living in Toronto and studying dentistry arrived home for a vacation last night and so joined us this morning. The last time I saw Allan he was about 6 years old. He was dead cute then and he still is - very chatty and well spoken much like his parents. You may remember that Rosa was married to Walter Porras. Because Allan had just arrived, Walter was eager to see his youngest son so also joined us for breakfast. I had not been able to make contact with Walter, so it was a surprise for both of us to meet at breakfast this morning. After breakfast Rosa needed to get to the office, but Walter was eager to show both Allan and ourselves his office, so we had a quick tour of the place where Walter is the head of over 1600 employees! He is the Director General de Ingresos for the government of Nicaragua. Walter translates that as being the equivalent of the head of Revenue Canada! Rosa and Walter's other son is studying engineering at the University of Toronto, while their daughter remains here and is the mother of a 3 year old girl and is expecting her second child this summer. I am hoping to meet them all soon.
I have just sent an email off to Danilo Cedeno and hope to be able to see him too while we are here. Danilo runs a very successful furniture and cabinet making business. See the website at: http://lamuebleria.biz/in_index.htm
Aaste and I are happy and healthy and loving life in Nicaragua. Our Spanish is improving as well. You can find out more about our travels at our blog: http://travellingwithteen.blogspot.com (Note that you will likely find a copy of this letter on the blog soon, but I wanted to let you all know this information personally as I thought some of you may be particularly interested.)
Best regards,
Sandy Iverson
Hello everyone,
Some of you may know that I am spending this winter in Nicaragua. I have not visited the country in 18 years and had more or less lost contact with all of my friends here. Well.... I am happy to report that I have been able to meet up with some of them. You all probably know from your own reading etc. what the economic and political situation is here, and of course it is even more complicated 'on the ground' so to speak. However, I am happy to report that it is still a land with beauty in both it's landscape and it's people.
I had lunch with Ramon Meneses last week. Ramon has been working with Save The Children (Norwegian branch in Nicaragua) for the past 11 years or so. He is the Communications Director there. The last time I saw Ramon was in 1994. I was about 7 months pregnant with my daughter and volunteered to drive Ramon to various meetings he had with NGOs etc in Toronto. After his business was completed Ramon asked me to take him to Toys R Us so that he could buy birthday party supplies and gifts for his twin girls birthday. I believe they wanted an Aladdin theme. Well, those girls are 21 now. Both of them are studying business administration; one here in Nicaragua and the other one in Calgary Alberta (although she wants to transfer to a university somewhere in Ontario next year). Ramon also has an 8 year old son with his current wife. Last night a friend and I attended the Mercedes Sosa concert in Managua and went out for drinks and a light dinner afterward with Ramon and his wife Dignia after the concert. They seem happy and healthy and we look forward to seeing them again later this month - probably during Semana Santa when they will be down this way. (We are living in San Juan del Sur)
Last Tuesday I was chatting with a friend here who publishes the local newsletter (see http://www.san-juan-del-sur.com for the e-version) and we got to playing the "do you know so-and-so game". Turns out he knows Nick Cooke, as do most people in this region as Nick is a bit of a fixture here. He makes his living editing, translating and writing; is still married to the same lovely woman and has two children who are busily trying to decide which corner of the globe to attend University. One will be 18 this spring and the other is a little younger. Nick also owns a wack of land on the pacific coast here and apparently his beach barbeques are legendary. See http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2008/feb/12/11 for a recent article that features Nick and other 'Sandalistas'.
We stayed in Managua overnight after the concert last night and were able to arrange to meet Rosa Chavez for breakfast this morning. Rosa has been working for American Airlines here in Nicaragua and is now the Director General for American here in Nicaragua. As luck would have it her youngest son, Allan, who is currently living in Toronto and studying dentistry arrived home for a vacation last night and so joined us this morning. The last time I saw Allan he was about 6 years old. He was dead cute then and he still is - very chatty and well spoken much like his parents. You may remember that Rosa was married to Walter Porras. Because Allan had just arrived, Walter was eager to see his youngest son so also joined us for breakfast. I had not been able to make contact with Walter, so it was a surprise for both of us to meet at breakfast this morning. After breakfast Rosa needed to get to the office, but Walter was eager to show both Allan and ourselves his office, so we had a quick tour of the place where Walter is the head of over 1600 employees! He is the Director General de Ingresos for the government of Nicaragua. Walter translates that as being the equivalent of the head of Revenue Canada! Rosa and Walter's other son is studying engineering at the University of Toronto, while their daughter remains here and is the mother of a 3 year old girl and is expecting her second child this summer. I am hoping to meet them all soon.
I have just sent an email off to Danilo Cedeno and hope to be able to see him too while we are here. Danilo runs a very successful furniture and cabinet making business. See the website at: http://lamuebleria.biz/in_index.htm
Aaste and I are happy and healthy and loving life in Nicaragua. Our Spanish is improving as well. You can find out more about our travels at our blog: http://travellingwithteen.blogspot.com (Note that you will likely find a copy of this letter on the blog soon, but I wanted to let you all know this information personally as I thought some of you may be particularly interested.)
Best regards,
Sandy Iverson
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